racoma.com.phJ. Angelo Racoma on technology, economics, writing, problogging, and getting things done

I’m not much of a mouse fan, as I prefer using touchpads on laptops and netbooks. But I do use mice on my desktop computer. If you’re on the lookout for a reasonably-priced quality mouse, the Microsoft Express Mouse might be the right mouse for you.

Express Mouse uses the BlueTrack technology, which is said to perform better than laser-based optical mice. BlueTrack lets you use the mouse on more surfaces, such as the table, floor or even your pants. Being wired has its ups and downs, with the advantages being that you won’t need to recharge or buy new batteries.

Microsoft’s Express Mouse has an SRP of PhP 790, and is compatible with Mac and Windows.

I’m a known HP fan. I’ve actually owned four HP laptops and netbooks so far. I like HP for its design and for the relatively affordable prices of its consumer-oriented models.

With regard to warranty, HP hasn’t failed me. Its distributor MSI-ECS has serviced my computers twice. First, when my Compaq V2617TS had a defective fan, HP replaced the fan, as well as the entire lid and front bezel. I got a new LCD, plus a previously non-existent WiFi antenna. Second was when I had my B1256TU battery replaced. Both were done at the 11th hour, right before warranty expired.

However, HP’s service seems to be on the decline. Popular laptop club and retailer Cooltoyz wrote about how they have lost confidence in HP because of issues with the Compaq CQ-40 line. This was allegedly due to the “Line of Fate” issue with the LCD, in which the screen will eventually–and inevitably–flicker and just die out.

If you’re a writer, then one of the best tools you can have is a netbook. With a netbook, you have the ability to write anywhere you want – whenever a creative thought pops into your mind. The netbook market has recently exploded, and there are now dozens of models to choose from. Let’s take a look at some of the best netbooks for the mobile writer.

When I first got my Compaq Presario V2000 I thought it would be invulnerable, like my old Thinkpad. However, a few weeks into use, I realized that laptops with painted finishes like this one were vulnerable to fading, especially in those places with frequent contact with skin. Also, touchpads/trackpads (instead of trackpoints, those rubber nub joysticks that Thinkpads come with) were prone to get oily and sticky at some point, and lose their matte surfaces.

By the time I had sent in the V2000 for repairs under warranty, the paint on the palm rest had darkened in those places I would usually place the heel of my palm on, the touchpad had smooth surfaces in those areas my forefinger frequently moved along, and there was some rusting on the speaker grille in the front.

Good thing the HP approved of the replacement of the entire front bezel, so when I got my unit back, the V2000 looked almost good as new.

However, I knew that the paint would inevitably fade off, so I thought it was time to put in some protection. I scoured the computer shops at the mall for laptop skins, but I could only find the _very expensive_ kind, and the ones available were meant for MacBooks and MacBook Pros (such as the iSkin, et al). Keyboard-only skins for the MacBook retailed for PhP 1,200 (about $20), while palmrest protection for the MacBook and MBP cost PhP 1,500 (about $30). Protection for MacBook and MBP trackpads cost PhP 1,500 too.

I didn’t think these would fit my V2000, and the prices are a bit steep. So I didn’t bother to try them out. The only accessory I thought would fit were the cloth/felt-like pads I can stick onto the palmrest, but they were still priced a bit steep for cloth pads, at PhP 1,500 plus. I know I shouldn’t be scrimping on protection for an expensive gadget, but for those prices I could already buy additional memory.

And I knew of an alternative.

I remember a few years back when I was a mobile phone junkie, I would use Frisket Film to cover my phones’ screens to prevent scratching. Remember when you first took your mobile phone out of the box? Yes, the LCD screen had clear plastic film for scratch protection!

So I thought of buying frisket sheets instead. I headed to National bookstore, got myself a few sheets, and went on to do my project.

Frisket film is meant for use with airbrushing and you can usually find these at the art/engineering sections of supply stores. I believe these retail for PhP50 (about one dollar) per letter-size sheet. The National Bookstore branch I went to didn’t carry frisket, though, so I had to settle for clear acetate. It’s cheaper, but it’s not as good as frisket, since frisket doesn’t leave much sticky residue.

Step by step: how to protect your laptop with frisket film

I only installed the film on areas that had very frequent contact with skin, so these are the palm rest, touchpad and clickers. I would have protected my keyboard, too, but sticking on adhesive film on each key would be very tedious (and stupid, I think). The keyboard is where silicone skins should be used (and keyboard plastic is easier to clean since it’s not painted surface anyway).

What you need. frisket film, of course. If you can’t find this, clear acetate will do, but remember these might leave a sticky residue when removed. You’ll also need scissors, box cutter, or an X-acto knife (this would be best, I think). You’ll also need a pencil and ruler.

Measuring. First thing to do is measure the film against the part you want to cover. You can either hold the film against your laptop, or take measurements using a ruler.

I already covered the palm rest last night, but failed to take pictures. This afternoon, I decided to cover the touchpad, too. And here, I’m comparing the sheet of frisket with the touchpad’s area.

Cutting. Once you’ve measured the film against the actual area you want covered, it’s time to cut. In airbrushing, the artist would usually cut the film with X-acto knife while it’s already adhered to the surface to be covered. I’m not so adept at handling a cutter or X-acto knife, and I wouldn’t want my laptop’s surface to be scratched or cut. So I just cut the film while still on the paper backing.

Then I laid the film onto the touchpad surface to see if it fits.

My touchpad has rounded corners, so I have to trim the corners of the film, a la Web 2.0 style (rounded corners, that is).

Clean the surface. You wouldn’t want any dirt or dust to get stuck between that adhesive and your laptop. So the next step would be to clean the surface with any mild cleaning solution and soft cloth. Be sure to get rid of any oil residue (if your laptop is not new). You might also want to wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water, and dry them off completely before further handling of frisket.

Taking off the paper backing. Next step would be to take off the paper backing from the film. Be sure to handle the film only on the edges, as the adhesive side easily smudges with fingerprints.

Applying frisket on the surface. Now when you’ve taken the frisket film off its paper backing, you can now apply it onto the surface to be protected (previously cleaned and thoroughly dried). Start with the edges, making sure the film is aligned correctly. Be sure to stick it on from one edge to another. If you feel confident enough with your alignment, you can start with the center. Otherwise, air bubbles might form inside the covered surface.

If you’re covering your touchpad, be sure there are no air bubbles. Touchpads work on the capacitance of your finger (meaning electricity from your body), so it needs to “sense” the electricity from your finger in order to move the cursor. If the frisket is not properly applied, you might get inaccurate readings.

In fact, if you’re covering your touchpad, be sure to test first if it can still sense movements when something comes between the surface and your skin. You can try using any thin surface such as a piece of paper, or even the plastic packaging of your frisket film.

If you’re applying it on a larger area, you can get rid of air bubbles by gently rubbing the edge of a plastic card (such as a credit card) from one edge to another, or from the center to the edges.

Here’s a pic of my year-old V2000 before the front bezel was replaced (again, for free, by HP!).

Here below is the V2000 with a new bezel, and covered with clear acetate. The left part of my palm rest still with a few air bubbles. I don’t mind right now, though. I’ll just change the film when it gets too grimy already.

If you found this tip helpful, be sure to leave a comment below. You can also pitch in with other tips for keeping your gadgets like new.

I chanced upon this at a window display in SM Megamall Cyberzone last weekend. It’s the upgrade to my own low-end V2000 (which I bought for about PhP31,000 a year ago). the V3120TU runs on a Celeron-M 420 (1.6 GHz), 256MB DDR-2 533, 60GB hard drive and has a 14-inch brightview widescreen.

It’s not astoundingly fast, but what interests me is how a Compaq V3000 form factor can get this cheap. At PhP 29,900, that’s about US$ 660, which makes it priced on par with low-end branded units in the US.

I would recommend a RAM upgrade immediately, which would cost about PhP 1,500 (for a 512MB DDR2 stick). Reasonable enough. Oh, and models priced this low don’t have an OS pre-installed, so you would either have to: (a) shell out PhP 5,000 for an official copy of Windows XP or Vista Home edition; (b) install a flavor of Linux (I recommend Ubuntu); (c) go the Jack Sparrow way (meaning piracy–either bootlegged copies of XP, Vista or even OSX86!).

One big drawback though, as with the low-end V2000, this doesn’t have internal WiFi card. And don’t count on being able to install an internal mini PCI wireless card either! Compaq’s low-end Presarios don’t have internal WiFi antennae and it is most likely that the BIOS won’t accept the card by default (without hacks, that means).

This model doesn’t have Cardbus support, so your only option is to use a USB WiFi stick (or go wired!).

This could be great for offices/companies on the cheap that want to supply desktop replacements/substitutes for their staff.